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When curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest place securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.